A Brief History:

Mastiff dogs are one of the oldest recognised breeds in the world and have been depicted on rock carvings, statues and artwork throughout history as far back as 2,000 years before Christ. The modern breed was developed in England in the early 20th Century before almost dying out in the 2nd World War. A joint effort between England and USA successfully restored the numbers and now although not a common breed, the are no longer rare. There are also Tibetan, Neapolitan, French and Argentinean Mastiffs although these are all different from the English.

Physical Characteristics:

English Mastiffs are large, heavy, muscular dogs and are in the ‘giant’ breed category. The largest dog in the Guinness Book of Records is an English Mastiff who tops the scales at 155 kilograms! Height to shoulder is approximately 70-76 cms (20.5-30 inches) Weight is 79-86 kilograms. Coat colours – most common colour is fawn with a black mask (see pictures). There are other variations like silver-fawn, apricot-fawn and brindle (brindle and its variations are uncommon and hard to find).

Pros & Cons of owning a Mastiff:

Pros: Easy coat care, highly intelligent, excellent guardian, gentle, rarely bark, affectionate and loyal. Cons: Can be stubborn, aren’t often willing to perform ‘menial’ tasks/tricks, drooling and slobbering at mealtimes or after drinking, tail is like a whip so you can’t have ornaments. You need a vehicle that can transport them (or a trailer) – they don’t fit in your average family sedan. Some of the more heavily wrinkled adults have furrows that need to be cleaned on a regular basis. It is also wise to have air-conditioning in your house and car as they don't tolerate the heat. The following can be pros or cons, depending on your viewpoint: Often described by owners as “annoyingly affectionate” – they love to follow their owner everywhere and if they could they would get into your lap for a cuddle! Have a habit of leaning against you and lying with their head on your feet (remember what they weigh!). If going out in public with your Mastiff be prepared to be stared at and questioned incessantly - people are fascinated as they are rarely seen.

What to look for:

Look at as many dogs (pictures or real) as you can so you are familiar with the breed and decide how you would like your dog to look. There are heavily wrinkled Mastiffs and ones who are tighter skinned. Bone lazy ones and those who are more active. Taller thinner ones, or shorter stockier ones. Then put most of your time into inspecting the parents as they are the best indicator of what your puppy will be like. Please don't judge the female too harshly if you are seeing her for the first time with her puppies - pregnancy and lactation take their toll on a bitch's physical appearance so rely on photos of her prior to giving birth! If you want a working Mastiff – one who does the job of guarding and isn’t just a wrinkly face! – then make sure the parents show signs of this when you visit. Parents who bound up to you and lick you to death will have puppies who are similarly jolly. Ideally the Mastiff will watch you intently on arrival and bark – then when told by the owner it is ok they should settle down and even allow you to pat them. They will always watch you intently though.

Availability:

English Mastiffs are an uncommon breed so are not readily available. Most breeders have at least a 6 month waiting list. This will give you plenty of time to stockpile newspapers (invaluable item when toilet training puppies!) and make the necessary sundry purchases (dog crates/cages for travelling, bedding, worming treatments etc).

Cost:

Most puppies cost a minimum of $800 and can fetch up to $1500 or more. English Mastiff puppies are expensive in comparison to other breeds because it is expensive to breed a female (who will often eat up to 3 times her normal food intake while pregnant and lactating) and to raise the puppies (food, worming treatments, vet checks etc). Don’t make the mistake of thinking you can get your money back by breeding from your male/female – giant breed dogs are notoriously difficult to breed and often have trouble during the whelping process (birthing of puppies) – Caesarian births are not unknown. If you factor in the food and veterinary care for your breeding adults and weigh this up against the fact that most giant breeds can only safely have around 3-4 litters before they are too old, then you will quickly realise that many breeders are running at a loss, most breed for love and not profit.

Purebreed? Pedigree? Registered? Papers? Guarantee?

Most people are confused by these terms and what they mean to you as a buyer. Simply put a purebreed dog is one who meets the criteria set by the various Kennel Clubs/Canine Associations. This means the puppy/adult must have proven ancestry for a certain number of generations (usually 3) - this is their 'pedigree'. In order for an animal to be shown it must be registered with the Kennel Club and have papers that detail the puppy’s ancestry. BUT at times these pieces of paper are just that, worthless pieces of paper. They are bought as blanks and the owner fills them in. An unscrupulous owner can put whatever they like. There is no way of guaranteeing what they are filling in is the truth. If you don’t want a dog for showing, papers are not necessary. Guarantees - a little advice that I have learned the hard way. Just because a puppy has papers in no way guarantees you a healthy animal. Being registered and/or a Champion dog (have a prefix of Ch before their name) in no way means a healthy animal. There are many stories of buyers having puppies with major health problems even though they had a "guarantee". This is one of the many stories about such a dog - a champion registered papered animal who only lived a short life: http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/mastiff/ABOUTUS.HTM Read also my post further down on Hip/Joint problems for the reasons why these "health guarantees" are useless. No-one can guarantee the health of your puppy - but you can help prevent potential problems with a little knowledge.

Thursday, December 7, 2006

Diet - commercial vs natural and BLOAT

Diet:
As previously mentioned, a fully-grown Mastiff will eat the same amount as a German Shepherd. When you are raising a puppy though, they will eat more as they grow rapidly – on average 1-2 kilos per week. The emphasis needs to be on QUALITY of the food, not the QUANTITY.

Giving dietary advice is like giving child rearing advice. There are 2 strong camps usually in direct opposition (namely commerical food vs raw food) with a few in the middle with a 'bit of everything' approach. Read up about both and make your decision based on fact - but consider the source of the information and their bias. Vets are supposed to be a great source of impartial advice with only your dog's health in mind - but did you know many operate on a kick-back system with the commercial pet food manufacturers?

If you use commercial food, only use one designed for giant breeds. AVOID "PUPPY" FOOD AT ALL COSTS! It is too rich for giant breeds and forces them too grow too quickly - placing stress on their joints and guaranteeing hip/joint problems later in life. Studies have been done on this and many have been published on various Vet sites and magazines - this is a direct quote from one:

"Some years ago, half of a litter from a mother dog showing hip dysplasia was given all the puppy food they would eat; the other half was given limited quantities of adult dog chow. As the pups matured, the ones given the puppy chow developed hip disease but the ones given adult dog chow did not." (find the full article here: http://www.petpages.com/article.php/10/32/Joint-and-Back-Pain-in-your-Pet)

I will reveal my personal bias here and state up front I am not a fan of commercial food. I only use this as an addition to, not the basis of, my dogs’ diet. We favour raw food – bones, fruits and vegetables. Our dogs’ diet is made up of lamb necks, lamb ribs (or brisket), chicken frames, raw vegetables and raw fruits (yes they really do eat them! Our Mastiffs graze off our fruit trees – we didn’t teach them this, they do it by instinct). I do give a small amount of commercial dry food as it contains trace minerals and also because it is convenient. Further information about other negatives to commercial food can be found here:

1. http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/common/feeding.html (wondering what goes into commercial food? You may be surprised!)

2. http://www.barfworld.com/html/barf_diet/barfdiet.shtml (a very popular diet for dogs called the B.A.R.F diet)



The two biggest mistakes people make when feeding their dogs are:

Too much food! Especially when you use commercial dog food as the main source of food. All brands have recommended feeding amounts and schedules – only problem is no-one ever sticks to these! Rover always gets slipped extra table scraps, training treats, bikkies, bones etc etc. These add to the calorie intake and people wonder why Rover is getting fat even though “I only give him the amount stated on the packet….”.

Incorrect balance of food. Dogs need a balance of protein, calcium, fats and vitamins/minerals. We don’t need to get the scales out and weigh everything and scientifically analyse each morsel – just some common sense! Raw foods contain all their nutrients because they haven't been cooked/processed out.

To know if you are feeding your dog correctly, look at your animal. Loose, elastic skin and a soft shiny coat means a correct fats/oils balance. Good form (feet arched like a cat, back not swayed, legs not splayed, nice straight white teeth) means animal has the correct calcium levels. Solid muscle is a sign of correct protein levels. Clear bright eyes and pink gums are evidence of trace minerals and vitamins balance.

Another (slightly gross) way to check this is to look at the dog's stools (yes, I mean poo!). A black, tarry stool is usually a sign of too much protein (red meat the likely culprit); smelly, loose and unformed stool (like a cow pat) a sign of too much fats/oils or too much starch (biggest culprit rich dry foods or canned food). The stool should be firm, formed with not much smell. After a few hours outdoors it should be dry and white like chalk - this means there is a correct amount of calcium (usually comes from eating raw bones). As far as condition goes, you should be able to see the dog's rib cage but not be able to count the ribs!

Exercise and food are linked to a serious condition in large breed dogs known as BLOAT.

The following links contain detailed information about bloat, please try to read as much as you can so you can avoid this painful - often fatal - condition:

1. http://www.globalspan.net/bloat.htm

2. http://www.kifka.com/Elektrik/Bloat.htm

32 comments:

donovan_ferguson@hotmail.com said...

I have a wonderful Mastiff named Helly and we live Melbourne, Australia. She is almost 6 months old.

I have two rules with food...

RULE 1
I don't feed it to Helly unless I am prepared to taste it myself. In case you are wondering, dry dog food tastes like cardboard. It's disgusting, however, mixed with the below ingredients, it’s not too bad, and the dog goes crazy for it!

RULE 2
I control the food. Helly must sit when her bowl is placed on the ground, and not move a muscle until I give her the eat command. Mastiff's are too big and powerful not to know who the boss is, and the boss is always the food provider/controller. I also take her bowl off her occasionally (only momentarily) BUT… DON'T DO THIS unless you have trained your Mastiff from the very first time you fed her, otherwise you WILL probably lose an arm. This is not a Mastiff trait, it applies to all dogs.

I don't believe in commercial or natural food. Raising Helly, I have found the best diet is a mixture of both.

DRY FOOD
I purchase 15kg bags of adult dry food for about $35(AUD). These last Helly about 2 weeks. Don't ask your vet what brand they recommend, ask them (confidentially) if there are certain brands to avoid. One particular brand, perhaps the best known and most heavily advertised in Australia, is widely regarded as rubbish (nutritionally). NEVER USE PUPPY FOOD, MASTIFF'S SHOULD HAVE ADULT FOOD FROM THE TIME THEY GO ONTO SOLID FOOD.

VEGETABLES and Fruit
Helly eats anything you put in front of her EXCEPT green pea’s. Pea’s are hated (I don’t know why). I blend her beetroot, apple, carrot, broccoli and kiwifruit. Don't cook the veggies, just rinse them under cold water. BLENDING IS VITAL, the smaller the better. The finer the blend, the easier the dog will digest the veggies, meaning more nutrients are extracted before it comes out the other end as poo. Speaking of which, poo will always be nice and solid, and fairly odour free thanks to the roughage from vegetables. Breakfast and dinner consist of 5 heaped table spoons of the blended vegetables. Enough vegies to last 1-week costs about $7-$10(AUD).

Lastly, breakfast and dinner consists of some kind of canned fish and I don't mean pet food. Depending on what is on special at the supermarket, you can buy 300-500g cans of sardines, herrings, muscles etc for between $1-3(AUD) each. For example… currently my local Safeway has 440g cans of herring in tomato sauce on special for $1.30 per can. Much cheaper than pet food and the dog goes nuts over the smell and taste!

So, at 6 months old and currently 48kg, breakfast and dinner meals for Helly consist of 3 cups of dry food, 5 tablespoons of blended vegies, 1 tin (or about 400g) of fish.

So, if you are wondering how much it will cost to feed a puppy as it becomes a gigantic dog... about $53(AUD) per week. Keep in mind that this is current, Helly was eating half this 3 months ago, so half the $$$. That covers the big meals, lunch consists of either an apple, a banana or a bone, so this is about another $7-$9 (AUD) per week. Clearly this is a meal that won't be required once Helly stops growing, and I expect to half her breakfast and dinner portions too (I'd love to hear from owners of "older" Mastiff's on the diet reduction)!

I feed Helly cheese as a treat or training tool. You can buy big bags of “BBQ” size (about 1.5cm square) cheese squares for $5-$7(AUD). Don’t believe what you hear about dogs being lactose intolerant. Cheese is also full of calcium. Cheese is possibly a little fatty, but when you live on fish, vegetables and cardboard (opps dry food), a treat doesn’t hurt now and then!).

Hope this is helpful to people trying to work out the "true cost" of a Mastiff and what practical tasty food you can give your pup.

Lastly, the cost is nothing compared to the joy you will get from a Mastiff. WOOF!

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